September 7th: Chaos in the streets and leaving for Maroua

September 7th

Government corruption in the streets

Gendarmerie armed with machine guns, bayonettes and riot masks, CAT tractors, bulldozers, large crowds, people crying, women fainting, people screaming. There was a sense of panic and desperation in the air. The gendarmerie came in, with a cold look in their eyes, and cleared the people who had gathered in the streets. Three yellow CAT bulldozers followed, and began to wreck havoc on an old cement building. When the mechanical shovel made its first dent on the front wall, several people cried out. There were about 300 people gathered in the street to watch the event. I happened to walk by as the crowds began to form; I wanted to see what was going on.

We were about 30 feet from the entrance of my hotel.

I have learned that the government is doing ‘renovations’ on the streets of Yaounde. The owners of the buildings, usually small businesses, are lucky; they get a ‘warning.’ Two days before the business with which they feed their family is bulldozed, a government official spray-paints a large 48 HEURES sign outside.

I had heard that this happens, but I never thought I would see it.

I wanted to get some footage of the calamity, but I knew that it was probably illegal to film government officials while they were working. Especially while they were doing something as controversial as destroying people’s businesses. Also, I didn’t think it was a good time to challenge their unwritten rules while they were carrying machine guns. A French friend of mine, another volunteer from VSO, discreetly held his digital camera at his waist and tried to get a video. We were both too nervous so we switched to plan B. Since my hotel was so close, I went up to my room on the 4th floor. I got out my video camera, hid around the curtains, knelt down and filmed from afar. Even though I was well hidden, I was still afraid of getting caught. I got some good footage, but I am not sure we will be able to use it in the documentary.

Messages

Thank you to all those who have been sending me messages while I am here. It is really encouraging! Even though I don’t have as much time to write, it is nice to check my emails and to see that people back home still care.

Traditional dancing

We went out last night, and got to live something really different. I can’t describe what this place looked like… I will try to post a video! We got to see some traditional dancing which was amazing. A great cultural experience.

The road ahead

Later today, I am taking the train that will take me to Maroua in the North of Cameroon. I have heard so many stories about how this is a crazy trip. The ride is about 24 hours, but only 600 km long. Sometimes, the trail derails, especially during the rainy season (which is now). I think we will be fine, but this type of travel is draining!

Talk to you soon,
JP