mardi 25 septembre 2007

September 17th : Happy Birthday to me

September 17th : Happy Birthday to me

Thank you
So many people wrote to me to wish me happy birthday. Thanks so much! It felt great to hear from you guys. I only got the messages when I got back to Maroua (later on in the week), but it still felt nice to see that people hadn’t forgotten me at home. I wish I could have been with you on my birthday, but instead I was alone in my hut. I won’t lie; it was somewhat depressing when, at 6:30, there was no light and nothing to do. Not because it was my birthday, but just because.

Homologue
Met my partner in crime. His name is Matseme. I’m not sure about the spelling. He is pretty gangster. He is a “go against the grain” type of guy. He is a bit of an agitator. I figure this could both help and hinder the education project we are undertaking together. We’ll see. He is from Soulédé originally. His father is a religious leader (a “lawane”), and has six wives. This means my partner has over 30 brothers and sisters. Crazy. He is well known in the village, which has helped make some good connections. I look forward to working with him. I think I am in good hands, but who knows for sure at this point.

Football-Soccer
I played soccer for the first time here. I brought a ball, so it was not complicated to set up a game. Many kids showed up to watch, but only about 10 people ended up playing. It was fun, and I think I held my own. However, I am really out of shape! If I can play a couple of times a week, I think I will be fine.

First meeting

My inspector (head of school board) is on the ball. Very organized. Accordingly, we already have had our initial meeting with all the directors of the Soulédé-Roua region. Over thirty of them showed up. We did some very interesting activities. First, we reviewed enrolment rates for all the schools in the region. If they were lower than last years, people were in trouble. The inspector was not afraid to tell them. He said something along the line of “those who do not want to do the work will see us do the work without them”. This meant that they would be fired. Open threats flew throughout the meeting. Sometimes, the directors would finish the sentences of the inspector, as if they had heard his instructions a thousand times before. I was impressed about how strong his leadership style was. I’m sure it was effective in some ways. However, ruling this way did not help him be a good listener. He turned a deaf hear to those who offered reasons why their enrolment rates had dipped. At one point he said to someone, “I see you have your hand up, but clearly I am not done talking.” That gives you a small idea of what the inspector is like when it comes to work. I am happy to be on his good side though. He has been very good to both Christine and I…

September 15th : Life in another universe

September 15th : Life in another universe

The trip
Like I said in my last post, Christine and I waited a long time on Saturday morning for the bus to Mokolo. We expected a bus at 7, but it only came at 9:30. Once we left, the road there was pretty good (by Cameroonian standards). When we arrived, we were greeted by the Inspecteur and a director of a school in Soulédé. Together, we travelled by motorcycle on a country road. What a ride! I had all my bags strapped on to the back of the moto. The road was terrible; we swerved left and right to avoid potholes, rocks and puddles. At times, we crossed right through small streams of water that flowed across the road. I was happy during this ride. I was heading to my village and looking forward to it. The scenery was beautiful; we were entering the mountainous area. Everything is green at the moment because we are in the rainy season. In a month, the scenery will be very different. The downside of the rainy season is that it destroys the roads. People manage to travel however, as we saw a few other motorcycles travelling to and from Mokolo. Everyone that happened to be on the side of the road stared. They must have wondered; “what is a white person doing here?” The more people we past, the more I saw that people in rural areas were poorer than people in urban areas. We saw many little huts on the side of the road. The huts, the people, the road, the mountains, the moto; I really felt like I was on an adventure during the ride. After about 25 minutes, we arrived to my house.

My first place
I guess it is different than most people’s first place. Since pictures speak louder than words, I posted a whole slew of them on Facebook. I also posted a video. Check it out and let me know what you think. I guess the best way to describe is: “charming.” It looks like I have three little huts all too myself. The first hut is my executive bathroom suite. The toilet is interesting. First, the water at the bottom of it is dark brown. There is no running water, so you can’t flush. You just pour water in when you are done. Also, there is no toilet seat. The shower is a nice mould-green colour. There is often a toad there in the morning to great me. We are not friends. When you are naked in a hut, washing yourself with cold water from a bucket, it is not fun when a slimy creature jumps on your feet. The second hut is an empty room. I haven’t figure out what to do with this circular, cement space. The third hut is my home. It is my kitchen and bedroom. The kitchen is quite filthy. There is some sort of sink that drains very slowly, a counter top, and some shelves. I am looking forward to cleaning it, but I do not have those supplies right now. My bedroom is pretty big. I guess I can also call it my living room. There are many shelves, as well as a storage unit. I set up my mosquito net over my bed. It is an adjustment, but I guess I am pretty comfortable there. During the day that is…

Alone
What do you do when it is pitch black outside at 6:30pm in a small African village? Go inside. What do you do inside? Turn on a light. Wait! You don’t have electricity. What can you do then? If someone can answer that, I will be very grateful, because so far, I have no good ideas. It can get very lonely very fast here. Especially if you are stuck cooking your supper or washing yourself in the dark. At 5:45, you will notice there is a little bit less light. So, from 5:45 to 6:30, I usually have a race against time to get myself set up for bed. If I do not to take care and prepare for this, I will be stuck stumbling in the dark trying to get organized. After the craziness, I usually end lying in my bed. How can you fall asleep at 6:30? So usually I am left wondering and worrying. Thinking about how much it sucks here. Thinking about how much I miss home. I know it is unhealthy, but very often I think about all the great things I will do when I get home. I want to go to a restaurant, I want to play basketball, I want to get ice cream, I want to see this, to do that, I want to hang out with this person, etc. I know I can’t keep doing that. I have over 5 months left! I have to find more things here that make me happy. I guess that will come with time. But for now, I can say that being alone in my village is tough.

mercredi 19 septembre 2007

September 14th : End of training : Boredom, Bleeding Leg, Big Meeting

September 14th : End of training : Boredom, Bleeding Leg, Big Meeting

“Can’t stand ya”
If you watch the TV show Seinfeld, you will remember when George Castanza was bullied, and that other kids would call him “Can’t stand ya” instead of Castanza. Well, seeing the same people for two weeks straight, everyday, all the time, I think “can’t stand ya” is appropriate. Maybe I am just speaking for myself, but enough is enough.. Besides the VSO volunteers being fed up with seeing each other, the training is becoming painful. Some training sessions are borderline useless, so waking up for them doesn’t seem worth it. Personally, I am looking forward to getting to work in my village. Anyways, the training is almost over! Pretty soon, VSO will cut the umbilical cord and I will be free!

Injury
How embarrassing…I fell into something called a ”canivaux”, a sewer on the side of the street. About two and half feet deep and one and half foot wide, these sewage corridors pick up excess water from the rain. Cameroonians also find them convenient for throwing away their garbage. I don’t know if I mentioned earlier, but garbage is everywhere here. In the canivaux, in the streets, in the fields, everywhere. You can imagine how dirty this makes everything seem. Anyways, late at night, I accidentally walked right into one of the sewage corridors. Consequently, I slit open my big toe and cut up my left chin. I am sure you already figure that getting injured in another country is a bad idea. Getting an open wound is probably worse. Dipping a bleeding wound into a sewage corridor filled with brown water and garbage? Now you’re asking for trouble. I walked home, my feet wet with sewage and gashes bleeding, wondering what kind of dirty bacteria was currently entering my body.

When I got back to the mission, I got someone to clean it up. Soap and water, polysporin, alcohol, the whole thing. I had to bite into a towel while they poured alcohol on my toe. Better this pain now than an infection later.

Obviously, I survived the small incident with no significant viral infections.

Big Meeting
Today I met the Mayor and the Inspecteur of Roua-Soulédé, which is the region where I will live. The Inspecteur will be my number 1 man for the next 5 months, so it was an important day. He is an imposing man. He stands about 6-4, and is probably over 230 pounds. He commands respect. He speaks his mind at meetings. He looks like he knows what is going on. Overall, I got a good first impression from him.

After I spoke with the Inspecteur and the Mayor alone, we joined a larger group of all the VSO education development advisors (our job titles). They were accompanied by their respectful Mayors and Inspecteurs. This meeting was pretty chaotic, long, and heated. This is what student politics and the fraternity prepared me for! This is my element. While other volunteers felt intimated and confused about what was going on, I feel like it is Sunday night with the Sammies.

After the meeting, the Inspecteur offered to drive us immediately to our villages. We were not prepared for that, so we opted to leave Saturday morning at 6:45am. We went out at night, as we were kind of celebrating my birthday, so I only got to bed at 3:00am (after packing). The next morning was rough, as we headed out to the bus station very early. We experienced “Africa time” that morning, as the 7:00am bus only left at 9:30am.

More updates to come very soon…

mardi 11 septembre 2007

September 9th: Living in Maroua

September 9th: Living in Maroua

The streets of Maroua
Hard to describe, but they make quite an impression on you. The infrastructure is very different than anything I have ever seen. Take a look at my facebook pictures for an idea. There is a lot of garbage around. A lot. Nothing is clean like back home. The cleanest store here would be one the dirtiest back home. Also, you have to negotiation 80% of the stuff here. The person gives you a price (usually 5 to 10 times the normal price), and you bargain down from there. I find it draining, but I guess I will adjust.

Nasara
I am white! Look at me I am white! Either I am wearing a shirt that says that, or people in Maroua are just not used to seeing white people. I have been told that the latter explanation is more likely. Have you ever felt that you were perceived only by your skin’s color? Well that is how it is here, and people aren’t afraid to tell you! It’s tough enough being in a foreign country for the first time; you are already an outsider. But when people hiss and shout at you everywhere you go, it can be intimidating. And humbling at the same time. Visual minorities in Canada must feel ostracized when they are the only ones amongst a crowd of white people. I think getting yelled at will take some getting used to.

Fufuldé
I got my first lesson in the local language today. Hopefully in a few months I can send some video of me speaking it with someone. It’s pretty cool.

Friends
I have been hanging a lot with the guys here. Out of 15 new volunteers, we are only 3 guys. Hugo is a new volunteer like I am, and we share a room at the mission. He has a dual citizenship with France and Canada. I enjoy his company because he is a “do-er”, and so am I. We are not content just sitting around. We find things to do, people to talk to, projects to undertake, etc. We make the most of the moment. Then there is Ed, a returning volunteer. Ed is from the UK. I like to laugh with Ed and make fun of this whole process. Ed doesn’t take everything as seriously as everyone else, so I have enjoyed making jokes with him and Hugo. Sam, another returning volunteer, is also from the UK, and also joins in on the laughs. If it wasn’t for these guys being here, I would be having a tough time.

Basketball

I brought a basketball and soccer ball with me on my trip. I got my basketball pumped today, so I am pretty excited about playing here. People who see me in the streets yell out “Jordan!”, but only after they yell out “Nasara!”

September 8th: Road Trip, Cameroon style

September 8th: Road Trip, Cameroon style

Train
It was crazier than I thought it would be. We started our journey at 6pm, and it ended at 9pm the next day. The first step was the train. To get our tickets, we had to send a VSO worker 4 hours early to the station. For some reason, you can’t simply reserve tickets and buy them here. Everything has to be more complicated and chaotic. Once he got us tickets, getting through the train station was difficult too. Everyone shouts “nasara” at us, which means “white person” in fulfuldé, a popular local language. In the station, we saw someone chasing down a kid to hit him. Perhaps it was because the child was trying to steal. Also, many people rush to get your luggage. Some are designated porters; others might run off with it. Once in the train, it wasn’t that bad. We travelled “first class” and had access to a “couchette.” First class means different things in Canada and in Cameroon. We shared a room for four, and its walls were very filthy. The toilet led to a hole at the bottom of train.

To make the 13 hours pass by faster, I watched movies and made some interviews with other volunteers. We stopped about 15 times on our route. When we did, we got a sad glimpse of how poor people in the suburbs. At all hours of the night, dozens of people would run around the stopped train carts trying to sell local produce. I bought some bananas. I can still here some of them desperately calling out: “Banane-Banane” or “Prunet-Prunet.” The kids ran around and yelled for our empty bottles. I gave my bottle, and two kids fought over it. Afterward the selling was over, I chased a bat out of our cabin. That was cool and scary at the same time.

Bus
When the train stopped at its final destination, panic struck again. We had to rush to get on the first bus out of that small city. Again, we had tickets, but you have to hand them to someone who redistributes to a mob of yelling people. In the meantime, people were coming up to us to shake our hands, say nasara, take our bags, sell us something or beg for money. Theft was more an issue here than anywhere. One girl got her passport and 30000CFA (about 60$) stolen out of her pocket. When we got the tickets, we had to argue to get all of our bags put on board of the bus. When we did, we had to push into the crowd to get in. By the time all that stress was over and the bus was moving forward, we had 8 hours on this sauna of a vehicle to look forward too. One of the volunteers, who might have either malaria or a parasite, was white as a ghost on the bus. We got a doctor to take care of her, and luckily she eventually felt well enough to go on with the trip.

At one point, the road was flooded by about 3 feet of water. The bridge to the right of the road was out of order, so the bus decided to go straight through the water. Lucky for us, it worked, and we didn’t get stuck. Our luggage, which was being carried at the bottom of the bus, got drenched. Another option was to “porter” us across, but that would have been pretty sketchy as well. Max, it was exactly like Oregon Trails. You know what I mean.

We got to our Maroua at about 9pm. We have travelled for more than a day straight. We are staying at a Baptist Mission compound for the week. It’s actually pretty nice, I am enjoying it here.

vendredi 7 septembre 2007

September 7th: Chaos in the streets and leaving for Maroua

September 7th

Government corruption in the streets

Gendarmerie armed with machine guns, bayonettes and riot masks, CAT tractors, bulldozers, large crowds, people crying, women fainting, people screaming. There was a sense of panic and desperation in the air. The gendarmerie came in, with a cold look in their eyes, and cleared the people who had gathered in the streets. Three yellow CAT bulldozers followed, and began to wreck havoc on an old cement building. When the mechanical shovel made its first dent on the front wall, several people cried out. There were about 300 people gathered in the street to watch the event. I happened to walk by as the crowds began to form; I wanted to see what was going on.

We were about 30 feet from the entrance of my hotel.

I have learned that the government is doing ‘renovations’ on the streets of Yaounde. The owners of the buildings, usually small businesses, are lucky; they get a ‘warning.’ Two days before the business with which they feed their family is bulldozed, a government official spray-paints a large 48 HEURES sign outside.

I had heard that this happens, but I never thought I would see it.

I wanted to get some footage of the calamity, but I knew that it was probably illegal to film government officials while they were working. Especially while they were doing something as controversial as destroying people’s businesses. Also, I didn’t think it was a good time to challenge their unwritten rules while they were carrying machine guns. A French friend of mine, another volunteer from VSO, discreetly held his digital camera at his waist and tried to get a video. We were both too nervous so we switched to plan B. Since my hotel was so close, I went up to my room on the 4th floor. I got out my video camera, hid around the curtains, knelt down and filmed from afar. Even though I was well hidden, I was still afraid of getting caught. I got some good footage, but I am not sure we will be able to use it in the documentary.

Messages

Thank you to all those who have been sending me messages while I am here. It is really encouraging! Even though I don’t have as much time to write, it is nice to check my emails and to see that people back home still care.

Traditional dancing

We went out last night, and got to live something really different. I can’t describe what this place looked like… I will try to post a video! We got to see some traditional dancing which was amazing. A great cultural experience.

The road ahead

Later today, I am taking the train that will take me to Maroua in the North of Cameroon. I have heard so many stories about how this is a crazy trip. The ride is about 24 hours, but only 600 km long. Sometimes, the trail derails, especially during the rainy season (which is now). I think we will be fine, but this type of travel is draining!

Talk to you soon,
JP

mercredi 5 septembre 2007

September 5th


Canadian Embassy
I met the high commissioner who represents Canada in Cameroon. It was kind of exciting; I got to sign in a registry that has existed since 1991. There are very few signatures! It could be because not many Canadians have visited Cameroon, or because not many people bothered coming to sign the book. In the case of political conflict, civil unrest or other dangerous circumstances, this office is responsible for getting me back home.

Comfort

I am starting to become more comfortable in the city. I don’t care as much that everyone stares at me wherever I go. These are not the people that I will form relationships with anyways. Bargaining with street vendors is not as much of pain anymore.

Contribution
Throughout the training, I have had highs and lows in relation to how I feel about my potential contribution during my placement. Sometimes I feel that corruption in the government is the real issue, and that my work will only make a small ripple on the ocean of problems that plague Cameroon. At other times, I feel like I have the potential to really improve the education system in my village.

Electricity
Electrical outlets are different here than in North America. I have had to buy converters and adapters, and it has been very complicated. For example, some electronics need a certain voltage range. Also, some adapters only work in certain outlets. Because of these complications, I have not been able to recharge the batteries for my camera yet. This is why I haven’t sent too many pictures!

Team
The VSO volunteers have started to bond more and more. We hang out, have dinner, share some laughs. It will be tough to say goodbye to everyone when I leave alone for my isolated village up north.

Motivation
The word motivation here also means financial compensation for work! It is a funny interpretation of the word that says a lot about the power of money.

In general, I am doing fine, and am happier that I was when we first got here. I am starting to get grounded, but that will change once we leave on Friday for Maroua.

lundi 3 septembre 2007

September 3rd: Getting adjusted (?)

September 3rd

Getting adjusted (?)

Coworkers
I have met almost all of the VSO staff today. VSO hires both Cameroonian staff and staff from outside the country. They have been great at helping us get adjusted.

Cell phone
I bought a cell phone today for about 50$ CAN. I had to negotiate with a street vendor to get that price. Here, most prices are negotiated.
If you want to call me, you should buy an international calling card at a corner store. Make sure Cameroon is on it. I bet you can buy it at different increments (5$, 10$ or 20$). I am not sure how many minutes that will give you.
Here is what you have to dial (you can do this from a home phone too, but it might be expensive):
1. Dial 0 11 (to make an international call)
2. Dial 237 (that is the country code for Cameroon)
3. Dial 77 40 39 27 (that is my cell phone number for now)

In summary, dial the following number: 0 11 237 77 40 39 27.

By the way, if you call me, the call is free for me!
I think I can also do text messages. Those are cheap for me, and I assume they are just as cheap for you.

Money

One Canadian dollar equals roughly 500 CFA (the current unit here in Cameroon).
This means that I paid 25 000 CFA for my cell phone (50$CAN), 100 CFA for my bread this morning (0,20$CAN), etc.
VSO has given us some money for meals and communications.

Taxi
Getting a taxi in Yaounde is very different that in North America. Basically, you stand on the side of the street and shout out your destination to taxis passing by. If he is heading that way, he will pick you up. Taxis pick up several different people on their trips. We took taxis a few times, and had to shout from the side of the street. It was pretty cool.

Poverty
Even though I knew what I was getting into because of research and training, I didn’t expect the capital city of Cameroon to be this poor. I thought I mostly see this in my village in the North. Unfortunately, a lot of people here live on very little. The disparity between the handful of huge government buildings and the homes, shacks and stores down the street is difficult to stomach. I included some pictures, but they do not explain the sheer amount of people living like this. It is incredible. I do not have many comments to make about it as of yet. I am really trying to absorb my surroundings for the moment.

Thank you
Thanks to those who helped me fundraise almost 500$ at my going away party. It was great to see you all, and we managed to collect funds that will help in my placement. Thank you to all of those who sent good wishes by email and through Facebook. I appreciate it! Also, for those who asked about online donations, I should be able to up an online function on the VSO website soon. Thank you in advance!

A bientôt, JP

September 1st: The adventure beings

September 1st

The adventure begins…

I am doing one week of training in Yaounde, the capital of Cameroon. Later in September, I will be heading to Maroua, one of the bigger towns in the Far North Province. At the end of the month, I should be settled in my village, Soulédé, which you won’t find on a map.

For now, I am using an internet café on a busy street of Yaounde.

Packing
I started packing for my trip about an hour before I had to leave for the airport. It was a little ridiculous. As some of you know, I had two classes to finish before I left. I took my last exam on Wednesday, and left on Friday. My studying left me little time for preparations and packing. Good thing I got a lot of help from my sister. Sarah taped the whole ordeal. Imagine packing for 6 months in about 45 minutes!

The Trip
I decided Sarah would come to the airport with me after all. I gave her going away presents in the van on the way over. It was really hard to say goodbye to her.

I had quite the trip today. If you count the travel time from my house to this hotel, I have been travelling for 24 hours.

Leg 1: Ottawa to Montreal (35 mins)
Wait 3 hours
Leg 2: Montreal to Paris (6 hours)
Wait 5 hours
Leg 3: Paris to Yaounde (8 hours)
Drive to Hotel, 1 hour

On the first flight I felt sad and missed home a lot. I felt like leaving for 6 months was something pretty serious… Air France fed us well though, and we got to watch movies on a personalized screen (my last dose of luxury!). On the second flight I started to look forward to seeing the country.

Arrival in Cameroon
By the time we got to Cameroon, we were all exhausted. We landed in Yaounde (the capital of Cameroon). VSO (Voluntary Service Overseas) staff came to pick us up at the airport. We were swarmed with other people offering “help” with our bags, but they really wanted money. They were persistent.

The drive from the airport was interesting. I saw a lot of run-down houses and little shops that would qualify as “sketchy” by Canadian standards. I would like to send more pictures, but you can imagine that it is rude to take pictures of strangers.
There were a lot of people walking the side of the roads (not many sidewalks), and I found that they were dressed pretty nice. I saw a woman and several men peeing in the tall grass on the side of the road.

Driving
The driving here makes people in Montreal look like angels. It was out of control! I saw a motorcycle drive head on towards a car and then swerve in a ditch, nearly missing the people on the side of the road. There are no traffic lights, or stop signs. There are no lanes. People honk before passing. That is about the only “rule.”

Hotel
I am very happy with the hotel we got; it is nice. I included a picture of my bed. However, if this hotel existed in Canada, it would not be very busy! We are all grateful to have it here, though.

A bientôt,
JP